Climbing in Suldal

In the municipality of Suldal you will find climbing locations of various sizes and qualities. Generally the rock is difficult to climb and the substance is either too compact or too brittle. In Norwegian often described as “rotten” rock. However, in winter with low temperatures there are numerous ice routes.

SPORT CLIMBING
Sport climbing is the most popular technique, and at the moment there are 4 locations varying in quality and size. Most of the routes are equipped with stainless steel bolts or glue-in bolts. Some routes must be protected with trad gear. All the routes have lowering-off points. The routes are onsight friendly.

Marvik
When you travel from Ropeid, nearby Solland, before the exit to Marvik. First rate quality rock. 2 minutes walk. You can park alongside the road, but not in front of the gate. Please close the gate after passing through or go outside the fence and into the forest.

All the routes are equipped with bolts and have lowering-off points. Climbing in Marvik

Vela
Follow the road from Sand towards Stavanger approximately 6 km, to a small parking lot next to the road. Room for 2–3 cars. There are 3 crags here. 2–5 minutes walk.

Lower Vela
The crag is below the road. 13 routes, slab rock. Grading (Norwegian grading): From +4 till –7 angle. Height up to 20 meters. Most of the routes are bolted, but on some routes you will need cams. All the routes have lowering-off points.

Middle wall
Only one route. Naturally safe, grading: –7. With lowering-off point.

Upper Vela
Follow the trail from the parking lot over the moor till you see a small cairn. The cliff has approximately 15 routes. Grading: From 5 till –8. In addition a couple of technical routes, A1 and A4 (?). Most of the routes are bolted, some are naturally safe. All the routes have lowering-off points.

Erfjord
In Habn in Erfjord you will find a small climbing area. Follow the signs to Habn, look out for a bathing symbol. Short hike and appropriate for the whole family. This is a good place for swimming and there is a permanent grill.

A low crag with 6–7 routes with lowering-off points. Some of them are bolted for lead climbing. At the moment the highest cliff has only one route.

Gamlaskar
Take the road towards Gullingen. You can part at the north end of Mosvatn lake. 30–45 minutes walk. The area is excellent for tenting. The crag consists of several walls with partly good quality rock. Some of the walls are not developed for climbing yet.

Mjølkesteinveggen
Situated at the upper end of the area. 8 good quality routes. Routes of up to 11 metres length. Grading: from +3 to +6. All the routes are bolted and have lowering-off points. Nearby a small lake. Good area for children.

Sartreveggen
The second from the top. 5 partly good quality routes. Grading: from +4 to +7. Routes of up to 20 metres length. All the routes are bolted and have lowering-off points.

Stølsveggen
Lies right next to the mountain farm like a lump. 9 routes of varying quality. Grading: From +3 to +5. Routes of up to 20 metres length. All the routes are bolted and have lowering-off points. Some routes have a rather difficult starting point. Unfit for children.


ICE CLIMBING
The area around Gullingen has about 50 ice routes in total. They are spread over 3 main locations. Mixed ice routes are not bolted in this area.

Ulladalen has close to 10 ice routes with varied rope lengths. Due to low height above sea level and facing south they are very exposed. On the whole within short walking distance.

Hedlebrekk is the main climbing area. Use the parking lot by Hedlebredd and turn towards Gullingentoppen. Then you will see the routes, most of them short – approximately 10–40 metres.

The distance to Stavastølsdalen is the farthest. You can park at the approach to the ski lift/tourist office. You have to go skiing approximately one hour to reach the destination. There you will find about 10 ice routes from 20 metres to 3 rope lengths. The ice in this area is very stable because of the altitude and north direction.

Bratlandsdalen. Climbing in two locations. Arriving from Nesflaten go approximately 1,5 km up the valley. After passing two tunnels you will see ice to the left. Some of the routes are close to the road, but the main attraction is an ice-filled hollow crammed with ice routes. The ice lasts a long time in this shadowy area. Parking is scarce. There is, however, room for some cars between the tunnels.

Further up the valley, by Tornes, there are more ice routes of 2–3 rope lengths. They are easy to spot at the right side of the road and river. You can park at the upper side of the bridge.